last changed 02/08/06
Making Waves
Some
thoughts on water in scenic displays of ship models
In two-dimensional
representations, such as paintings or watercolours the translucency and
reflectance of water surfaces are rendered by washes, reflected hues
and highlighting. The same applies to solid surfaces, where in addition
cast shadows would be rendered as determined by the assumed source of
lighting. In principle this can be done also on three-dimensional
models or scenic representations. It would demand, however, that the
model or scene is viewed and lighted always from the same point (which
would be correct for true dioramas); otherwise the painted effects
would be at odds with the shadows produced by real light sources or
real mirror effects. Nevertheless, since in nature the light generally
comes from above, surfaces pointing downwards can be painted darker and
vice versa, surfaces pointing
upward can be highlighted. Moderate highlighting can be also applied to
points or ridges that would be 'shiny' regardless of from what
direction being viewed.
Keeping these basic
observations in mind, a way to represent the
'depth' and translucent qualities or water together with creating the
impression of vividly changing reflectance is a challenge. Some (high
quality) modellers suggest a sea carved or
modelled in stucco that then is painted and varnished
appropriately. This approach can be quite satisfying, but depicting
spray and the body of a ship shining through the water immediately
adjacent is less easy to achieve. Some sort of transparent material is
needed.
Some 25 years ago I had access to quantities of metacrylic molding
resin and decided to give it a try. When the components have been
mixed, the mixture has a rather low, almost water-like viscosity. After
a few minutes a gelling process sets in; this is the moment when the
'sea' can be sculpted. Overall, I found the process not very
controllable and quite messy and smelly. Also a considerable thickness
of the material is needed in order to avoid distortion upon curing
(with the ensuing problem of dissipating the reaction heat).
Once the resin had cured, wave
crests and spray around the bow etc. were formed by two types of
putties: a) a thick mixture of
sugar (really!) and wallpaper glue, b)
a thick mixture of salt (really!) and wallpaper glue. When dry, putty 'a' has more glassy appearance, while
putty 'b' is opaquely white.
The sugar and salt act as fillers. Wallpaper glue usually contains
fungicides and biocides to combat fungal or microbial attack. To date I
have not seen any deterioration. The putties where used as appropriate.
On the commercial market, particularly for railway modellers, there are
various epoxy and - more recently - acrylic resin products to simulate
water courses, that could be explored.
Acrylic acid emulsions or dispersions come in various guises and form
the basis for various commercial products. Clear varnishes have been on
the DIY-market for some years now and also have entered the realm of
the average housewife in form of self-shining floorpolishes (usually
with perfumes added). In more sophisticated (and more expensive) form
they have also entered the market for artists' materials. A wide range
of flat or glossy varnishes and 'media' are available. The term
'medium' here refers to a additive in artists' paints that give them
the desired viscosity and the painting surface the desired texture.
Thus, about 12 or so years ago I discovered artists' acrylic gel
medium. As the name implies, this is a high-viscosity acrylic
dispersion and it will set to a nearly water-clear layer without much
loss of volume. Different brands with quite different price tags are
available.
Based on this my discovery, I developed two techniques
to represent
water:
A)
The 'sea' is sculpted in its
major forms in , e.g. wood or plaster. After the surface has been
sealed it can be painted. I used an airbrush or normal watercolour
brushes for this. The selection of colours an their shades will depend
on the geographical location and weather that is supposed to be
represented. Careful study of photographs and the 'real' thing is
recommended. For representing a rather rough and shallow North Sea
around the UBII
class U-boat I choose a dark blue and dark green airbrushed onto
the sculpted waves with and against their main direction. This gives an
interesting 'changé' effect and enlivens the sea when you view
it from different directions. The whole was then sprayed with acrylic
gloss varnish before the waterline model was placed into it. The narrow
gap between the model and sculpted sea was filled-in with gel medium.
Apart from not messing up the model with e.g. plaster this has the
effect that the sea is translucent immediately to the ship's body,
giving the impression that it is immersed in rather sitting on the sea.
Then the bow waves and wake were modelled in gel medium. Several goes
are needed because a too thick layer will run out. In the next step
areas with spray or whirling water were painted in or dry-brushed using
titanium white acrylic artists' paint. If you watch a water surface in
nature on a day that is not completely without wind, you will notice
patches that may be almost mirror-like, while others have a more
rippled surface texture, which is caused by local gusts. This rippled
surface texture you will also observe on a rough sea, say on the back
of a wake. The final step in modelling the sea is now to stipple those
areas that you want to look as affected by gusts with a bristle brush
filled with gel medium. Other areas that you may want to look smoother
can be worked over with gloss varnish, but spare those white wave
crest, because in nature they actually look flat due to the finely
dispersed droplets. It is, however, difficult to describe the procedure
in detail. One has to work on it, until it seems to look
'right'.
B)
A technique for
comparatively calm and translucent water, such as in my tropical scenic
settings, where one can actually sea or guess the seabed. For the scene
with the Ellice-Island
boat, the beach was sculpted in wood/plaster and then covered with
pumice dust, glued on with acrylic varnish. Then man standing in the
surf was fixed to the ground and layer by layer the water and surf
built up from acrylic gel medium. The surface was then finished in the
technique describes under (A). The Gilbert-Island
boat, which is depicted sailing before a moderate breeze across one
of the lagoons there is set into a groove cut into a piece of acrylic
glass. It is of the fluorescent variety, which I thought might make an
interesting effect. The small waves caused by the breeze were then
sculpted using the acrylic medium and the whole scene finished off as
described previously.
A final word:
When using different types of
materials, once should keep their compatibility in mind. Thus artists
work from 'fat' to 'lean', that is water-based undercoats or similar
with oil-based paints on top. Or in other words: don't use acrylic
varnishes on surfaces painted with e.g.
modellers' enamels.
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